The cold wind sweeps away the distraction of the sea and winter invites us to rediscover the historic centre. Amidst the lights and aromas of food that invade the streets, the treasures of Roman and Renaissance Rimini are revealed, the wounds of the German bombs are reopened and the dreamlike atmospheres of the films of Fellini, who was born here, materialise.

No packed lunch, my unusual tour satisfies the eyes and tickles the taste buds.

My journey through the city’s history can only begin… with breakfast! At the Fulgor Cinema, one of the most Fellini-esque places in Rimini, “Breakfast and Film” Sundays are back this season, when the great film classics are accompanied by coffee, cappuccino and croissants in the elegant foyer. Stuccoes, arabesques, combinations of red and gold. The recently restored interiors are a tribute to the atmosphere of the old American cinemas of the 1930s and 1940s and a tribute to Fellini himself, who as a child saw his first film here.

If you think that Hollywood and Romagna have never been so close, wait until you cross the threshold of the restaurant “Augusta cucina e cicchetto”, the city pied-à-terre of the starred “Guido”. More curtains, red walls and brass-edged mirrors. You have to climb a few steps to get to the real surprise. In the Augusta garden you are surrounded by jasmine and plants, but also by the remains of Roman Rimini and its Jewish ghetto. The walls of the city’s medieval iceboxes, which were used to preserve food, form the perimeter of the garden. Enjoying a fish risotto (obviously “red”, as is traditional in Rimini) in an open-air museum is priceless.